Suzuki DR650 Engine Case Guards Review

Suzuki DR650 Engine Guards

Extra protection for both sides of the DR650 engine.

The guards are available for the DRZ400 and Honda XR650R.

Easy to install and slightly expensive but made in the U.S.A.

I’m pretty much beyond the “must have” list of goodies for the DR650 but there are so many cool gadgets available for this bike that it’s hard to stop!

So I bought a set of engine case guards from “Advanced Motorcycle Products” (link in the Summary Table below), which is a one-man show.

He also makes the AMP oil filter cover for the DR650 and I have one of those but haven’t installed it yet. Similar guards are sold by Pro Cycle; I assumed they were made by AMP but apparently they are not.

DR650 Engine Case Guards

[Note: Corrected from original; I realized that I had the stainless steel Pro Cycle engine guards and not the aluminum AMP guards]

The engine case guards are 2 mm thick (0.080″) die-formed sections of stainless steel (the AMP guards are 5052 H32 aluminum, according to AMP).

I didn’t realize it, but the engine cases on the sides of the DR650 are made from magnesium, so the thick engine guard plates will help protect the magnesium engine case if the bike tips over.

The guards are unfinished but look like they’re galvanized or had some type of final treatment.

They probably could be painted or powder-coated if you’d like. The unfinished look is fine with me and there are no worries about scraping off the paint that isn’t there.

The edges of the guards have a sort of burnt look, indicating that these were cut from the aluminum sheet with a CNC torch.

Installing the Engine Case Guards on the DR650

Installation is a piece of pie. Clean off both sides of your engine with some degreaser; ditto for the inside of the engine guards.

I lost the original instructions but Pro Cycle calls for using high-temperature RTV silicone sealant.

I had a brand-new tube of Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker laying around (I can’t remember why I bought it!), so I used it and it works fine.

It’s rated from -65 F to +500 F, so I’m good to go.

Before you do anything, make sure the guards are going to fit correctly. Place them on the engine and check for clearance, especially around the shift and brake levers.

By the way, I ended up installing a Moose folding shift lever (review) because it’s about 20% heftier than stock and it sticks out a bit farther, which gives clearance over the side cover.

This goo is semi-permanent, so be sure you’re aware of that before you start.

You’ll need at least one full tube of about 4 oz. more if you can get it. Also, I warmed up the engine slightly first for good measure.

Run a bead around in concentric circles (make sure you’re working on the inside of the cover!) but stay about 25 mm (1″) way from the edges and from the circle cut into the left-hand side guard cover.

Press and hold the cover into place and it doesn’t take long for it to stick.

That’s all there is to it; hopefully, you’ll now have your engine case protected if/when you fall over.

Here are some more photos:

Conclusion

Do I need extra protection for the engine cases on my DR650? Probably not for the type of riding I do.

But take a look at my DR650 shift lever review and comparison article to get an idea of the damage to the engine case done by the shift lever as a result of a simple tip-over.

But part of the fun in owning a DR650 or KLR650 is buying and installing all of the cool little accessories that are available from an incredible array of suppliers.

The adventure-touring bike experience is enhanced by prepping the bike for any conceivable situation during your world tour…whether that tour is for real or will be taken in an armchair.

And besides, if the bike does tip over, and there just happens to be a pointy rock in the right (wrong) place, at least I’m protected!

Next: DR650 Rear Master Cylinder Guard Review and Installation  |  The wBW DR650 Blog

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Owner Comments and Feedback

From “M.M.” (January 2012):  “I also have a pair of AMP’s case guards and they’ve taken the impact of a few rocks without damaging my engine, so I guess they do pretty well.

One important thing to keep in mind when installing them is to leave some space between the guards and the case instead of trying to press the guard on and squeeze out all the RTV.

This provides a buffer so that a dented guard doesn’t deflect straight into the case.

Also, the Pro Cycle guards are made of stainless steel, so they should be a bit more protective than the AMP guards if they are a similar thickness.

I don’t have any experience with them but I’ve heard good things. Thanks for keeping the blog going!”

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